So last week I promised you guys that if I wasn’t mauled by a black cat under a ladder while breaking mirrors I’d show you how I create my inset pockets for pants. I have been getting mauled by a cranky, teething toddler, but, a deal is a deal, so POCKETS IT IS.
First things first, I want to say a big thank you to my friend Max, who donated a bunch of his old work clothes to the “adorable clothing for G” cause. Both fabrics I’m using in this tutorial are from his stuff.
You will be able to use this tutorial for any size pants. Start with a basic front pant piece. (The pant pattern I’m using was created from an existing pair of pants, but you can also use a simple pattern. The pattern linked to in my button down shirt tutorial includes simple pants for little ones.)
Cut a rounded section out of the corner of your pant front (shown on the right). Keep in mind that while your pocket will go slightly deeper into your pants because of seam allowance for the lining, you are also going to be losing some of it into the allowances into the side seam and waistband. In other words, what you cut is going to eventually be bigger along the pocket edge, but smaller at the top and side corners.
Lay your now-cut pant piece on top of your pocket material. Cut your pocket material to the edges of your pant piece’s side and waistband seams, but DO NOT follow the curve of the pocket. You want to create a piece that will cover the cut out of the original fabric, as well as extending into the pants for the pocket itself (see picture 2 above). Once you’ve created your pocket piece, cut a second piece in the exact same shape. If your contrast fabric is limited (like mine was in the case of the cowboy fabric above), cut this second piece out of another type of fabric. Ideally it will not show on the finished project. Line the second piece (the one that won’t show) up with the pants and cut along the curve of the pocket.
Place the right sides of the pant front and the pocket lining (piece 2) together and stitch along the curve of the pocket. Turn, press and if you’d like to topstitch the edge, now is the time! I forgot to do the topstitching on the cowboy pants until too late and I’m kicking myself now, because it makes it look so much more finished!
Place the first pocket lining piece on top of piece 2, right sides together and stitch along the portion of the pocket not attached to the pants. The portions you want to leave until later are marked with a blue line in the picture above.
When the two pocket pieces are sewn together at the bottom edge, flip the piece over, smooth everything flat and pin through all 3 layers. Now sew the seams previously marked in blue, attaching the pants front piece, pocket lining and pocket backing to one another.
Congratulations, you’re done! You can now treat your pants piece in the same way you would have before we started all this cutting and your end result will have a lovely set of pockets.
A note on scale. These pockets are a little big. I typically try to scale pockets to be just a little bigger than the wearer’s hand, but G has been putting everything into his pockets lately, so I figured he’d appreciate the extra space!
If any of this is confusing, or if you have any questions in general,
please don’t hesitate to comment or send me an email.